Reproduced with permission of the publisher of Lapidary Journal, January and February, 2007, Volume 60, Nos. 10 and 11.



Reproduced with permission of the publisher of Lapidary Journal, January and February, 2007, Volume 60, Nos. 10 and 11.



• Metal models ready for molding
• Mold frame (5/8" high x 1 7/8" wide x 2 7/8" long interior dimensions).
• Vulcanizer
• Two mold frame plates, large enough to
 sandwich the frame with more than 1/2"
 extending all around.
• Mold pressure plates (.064" thick and
.032" sheet cut slightly smaller than
1 7/8" x 2 7/8" with rounded off corners)
NOTE: Cut up 4" x 10" sheets of K&S
aluminum available at hobby and hardware stores.
• Old rolling pin or 12" dowel, diameter 1" or more.
• Steel ruler
• X-Acto® knife.
• Pointed tweezers (AA or similar).
• Sprue base formers (commercial or handmade).
• Sharp scissors.
• Soft bristle brush for spreading powder
• Fine brush (00) for powdering release vents.
• Dull, round-tipped, nonserrated butter knife.
• Scalpel with #11 blades.
• Heavy Duty aluminum foil (Reynolds is
thicker and better).
• Baby powder or jeweler’s talc.
• Wax paper. • Indelible felt-tipped marker (Sharpie®)
• Ziploc® freezer bag (quart size)
• Small covered container(s)
• Denatured alcohol and paper towels.
• Silicone rubber (Castaldo® Super Strength Strips.™)

In the last issue, we began preparing the mold made with the pre-vulcanized keys and powder separation. We will finish that mold in this issue, and make another that combines the pre-vulcanized keys with hand cut molds.


After double-checking the adhesion of the safety paper, put the marked slices into a Ziploc bag that contains 1⁄2 teaspoon of baby powder or talc. Zip it closed, and then shake and coat the exposed surfaces with powder á la Shake ‘N Bake. Retrieve the slices and shake off the excess powder as only a very thin coating is



needed. With clean hands, peel off the safety paper on the “back half” slice and gently place it into the mold frame, clean side up, without damaging the sides.

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